====== Kancil Carburetor Repair ======

Steps to identify, take apart, clean, rebuild, and adjust a Perodua Kancil carburetor.

Sources:

  * [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPVorvR-A9M|Bongkar Rahsia Carburator Kancil (Zallywho Video Channel)]].
  * Service Manual L200 - SM-01 2nd Edition.

===== Prerequisites =====

==== Tools ====

  * Spanner, 17 mm — Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve.
  * Spanner/socket, 14 mm — fuel drain screw.
  * Flat-blade screwdriver.
  * Thin flat-blade screwdriver or pick — for retaining clips.
  * Feeler gauges, 0.6 mm and 0.3 mm — choke adjustment.

==== Consumables ====

  * Petrol or carburetor cleaner — for outer/body cleaning only.
  * Compressed air — for clearing passages.
  * Rebuild kit for the specific engine variant (see below).

=== Kit Selection ===

^ Engine ^ Displacement ^ Kit part number ^
| Daihatsu EF-CL | 660cc | **K11-956A** |
| Daihatsu ED-10 | 850cc | **K11-957A** |

The primary difference in carburetors for each engine displacement is the needle valve head, due to the difference in fuel inlet flow rates to the float chamber;

  * 850cc needle has one hole facing up.
  * 660cc needle has three holes facing sideways.

===== Disassembly =====

  - Remove the outer linkages and electrical/vacuum parts first.
  - Then split the carburetor into its three main sections:
    * **Air Horn** — top, float chamber cover.
    * **Body** — middle; called "carburetor body" in generic aftermarket terms.
    * **Flange** — bottom; called "throttle body" in generic aftermarket terms; bolts to the intake manifold; carries the throttle valve, throttle lever, and idle screws.

**Body variant:**

  * JDM import bodies have extra emission-control vacuum ports and a **Throttle Valve Switch** (A/C cut switch), wired into the A/C system near the throttle linkage.
  * China-made bodies use a different casting without these parts.
  * Photograph hose and wire positions before disconnecting anything.
  * If the car previously had a JDM import carburetor, the engine side may still have matching hoses or wires (A/C cut switch connector, emission-port hoses) with nothing to plug into — cap these off or tie them down.
  * On a standard Kancil, cap off any extra emission-control ports (see [[#vacuum_ports_reference|Vacuum Ports Reference]]) and keep only the timed port connected, to the distributor vacuum advance.

==== Outer parts ====

  - Remove the vacuum hose bracket near the intake (two mounting screws, two hoses).
  - Disconnect the **VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve)** connector (3 pins, or 2 pins on some units).\\ //The number of wires tells you which cut-off circuit the valve is for.//
  - Remove the **Dashpot**: E-ring, two mounting screws, then two more screws on the linkage side.
  - Remove the **Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve** (17 mm spanner, then by hand).\\ //Commonly called the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid (ADS). Cuts fuel when the engine shuts off — if it fails, the engine can keep running after shutoff (dieseling/run-on).//
  - Remove the **Idle Adjusting Screw (IAS)** and the **Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw**.\\ //Some units need a special tool for the mixture screw — check before you use force.//
  - Remove the **Acceleration Pump** cover (4 screws) and the spring under it.\\ //Replace the cover gasket with the one from the kit.//
  - Remove the **Automatic Choke** assembly: linkage screw, E-ring, then retaining screw. The choke connecting rod and lever assembly then comes free.\\ //If stuck, tap it gently with a small hammer or punch.//

==== Air Horn assembly ====

  - Disconnect the **Outer Vent Solenoid Valve** terminal from its connector (release the lock on the back with a small screwdriver).
  - Remove the **Outer Vent Solenoid Valve** from the Air Horn (3 screws).
  - Remove the **Air Horn** (float chamber cover, 3 screws) from the body.\\ //If stuck, lever it gently with a flat screwdriver.//
  - Remove the **Float Lever Pin** with a flat screwdriver to free the float.\\ //May be a tight fit.//
  - Remove the **Acceleration Pump** spring assembly from the pump bore, then the **outlet check ball and spring** below it (ball at the bottom, spring on top).\\ //The Acceleration Pump's internal parts are listed under the factory service manual's Body Related Parts, not Air Horn — they are shown here because they are accessible once the Air Horn is off, before the Body is split from the Flange.//
  - Unscrew the **Needle Valve Body**, with its **Needle Valve Seat Gasket**, under the float.\\ //Has a small strainer inside; the kit usually includes a replacement.//
  - Remove the **Throttle Positioner** with its bracket (2 screws) from the Air Horn.

//Steps 8, 9, and 14 follow the factory service manual's stated procedure and part names; they have not yet been individually matched against the source video's footage.//

==== Splitting the body ====

  - Remove the two screws joining the **Body** to the **Flange** and separate the two sections. Between them: a **Carburetor Insulator** with its own gasket, and an **O-ring** — remove both, plus the gasket on the front face.\\ //The factory service manual's Body and Flange parts lists in this excerpt do not list a separate insulator at this joint — it may be the insulator normally fitted between the carburetor and intake manifold, shown here out of order; unverified against the excerpt.//
  - Free the main-jet emulsion tube inside the Body: put a thin pick under the retaining clip on each side and push up on both at the same time.\\ //This passage is narrow — clean it well to clear debris.//
  - Unscrew the **Main Jet** and remove its gasket.\\ //Factory service manual step, listed separately from the emulsion tube above; not individually matched against the source video.//

**Fuel path:**

  * The **Slow Jet** draws fuel from the bottom of the body, up through a central passage, to the slow-speed circuit.
  * If this passage is blocked, the idle mixture becomes too lean.
  * A separate **air-bleed passage** uses a spring that reacts to temperature. This spring opens and closes a valve near the base of the intake manifold, to control vacuum in that circuit.

**Idle-up system (if fitted):**

  * The factory service manual describes an idle-up actuator, a solenoid valve, and a Hot Idle Compensator (HIC) valve assembly with its own O-ring, mounted on the **Body** (the factory service manual's Removal of Body procedure lists these parts there, not on the Flange).
  * This system raises idle speed under load (for example, when the A/C compressor engages) and adds air at idle when the engine is hot.
  * It appears to be JDM-import/emission-package equipment. Malaysian domestic-market carburetors are believed not to have the HIC valve, though this has not been independently confirmed.
  * To check: look for a small vacuum-diaphragm canister connected to the throttle lever (idle-up actuator) and a separate small screw-in valve on the body (HIC valve). If neither is present, or the casting has no mounting boss for them, treat it as not fitted.

===== Cleaning =====

  * Wash the three **body castings** (Air Horn, Body, Flange) in petrol or carburetor cleaner.
  * Set the **Automatic Choke assembly, VSV, and Dashpot** aside; wipe clean on the outside only.\\ //Do not soak them in solvent — it can damage the parts inside.//
  * Dry all parts fully, then clear every jet and passage with **compressed air**.\\ //Jets and passages are narrow and clog easily — this matters more than the solvent wash.//

===== Reassembly =====

  * Put the carburetor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.
  * Tighten screws a little at a time, evenly, in a star or cross pattern on covers with several screws.
  * Tighten to a snug fit.

  - Fit new gaskets between the Flange and Body, the right way round. Check that every port and bolt hole lines up before you fit the screws.
  - Install the fuel drain screw with its kit-supplied sealing washer (14 mm).
  - Install the **Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve** with its new gasket, centered and the right way round (17 mm). Torque: **2.9 ± 0.5 N·m** (0.30 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 2.2 ± 0.4 ft·lb).\\ //Matched to the FSM torque table's "Solenoid valve" row.//
  - Install the **Throttle Positioner** with its bracket onto the Air Horn (2 screws).
  - Install the **Needle Valve Body**, with its new **Needle Valve Seat Gasket** and filter, into the float mounting boss. Torque: **2.0 ± 0.5 N·m** (0.20 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 1.4 ± 0.4 ft·lb).\\ //FSM "Valve seat retaining plate" row — the torque table does not name the retaining plate separately from the valve seat gasket, so this is applied here as the closest match.//
  - Install the **Needle Valve** (push pin, spring, retaining clip) into the Needle Valve Body, then install the **float** on its **Float Lever Pin**. Check it moves freely and seats correctly.\\ //As the fuel level rises, the float closes the needle valve and stops more fuel from coming in. With a correct, engine-matched kit, install the kit's needle. If the kit is generic and does not match this engine, the needle may be too large, causing poor idle or a no-start condition, and the mixture screw shape may not fit — in that case keep the original needle and use the kit only for its gaskets and float needle valve seat.//
  - Install the **Acceleration Pump outlet check ball, spring, and pin** (ball into its seat first, spring on top), then the O-ring.\\ //You can reuse the original O-ring if the kit does not have one.//
  - Install the **Main Jet** and its gasket, then the **Slow Jet** and its O-ring. Torque (Main Jet): **1.8 ± 0.5 N·m** (0.18 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 1.3 ± 0.4 ft·lb).\\ //No separate torque value is given for the Slow Jet in the FSM excerpt.//
  - Put the **Automatic Choke** housing and cover back together (clean sealing faces), then fit its screws and the mounting bracket for the choke mechanism.
  - Install the **Acceleration Pump** assembly (new gasket from kit) and spring, then its screws. Torque (depression chamber cover): **3.4 ± 1.0 N·m** (0.35 ± 0.10 kgf·m / 2.5 ± 0.7 ft·lb).\\ //Press the pump to check it moves freely. Applied here as the closest FSM match to this diaphragm cover; not matched against the source video.//
  - Install the **Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw**: fit its spring, then screw it in by hand until it seats lightly.\\ //This position is your starting point for the mixture setting in [[#bench_adjustment_default_setting|Bench Adjustment]].//
  - Put the **choke connecting rod and lever** back together (backing plate, choke lever, retaining screws, connecting rod). Check it moves correctly, then reconnect its wiring.
  - Install the **Idle Adjusting Screw**.
  - Install the **Dashpot**. Reconnect its wiring plug, and the Throttle Valve Switch connector if fitted.
  - Install the **Air Horn** onto the body.
  - Install the **Outer Vent Solenoid Valve** onto the Air Horn (3 screws, new gasket); reconnect its terminal and lock it into the connector. Torque: **2.0 ± 0.5 N·m** (0.20 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 1.4 ± 0.4 ft·lb).\\ //Keep its inner passage clear. FSM "Outer vent solenoid" row.//

**Float level (factory service manual specification, not matched against video footage):**

  - With the float raised, measure the gap between the float and the Air Horn using a block gauge. Specified gap: **6.5 mm**.
  - Raise the float further and measure the clearance between its lip and the Needle Valve. Specified gap: **1.2 mm**.
  - If either does not conform to spec, bend the float arm to correct it.

===== Bench Adjustment (Default Setting) =====

Do this basic adjustment before you install the carburetor on the engine.

**Setup:** keep the carburetor at about 23 °C for a few hours before you start (for example, in an air-conditioned room). This keeps the Automatic Choke's bimetal coil working the same way each time.

^ Adjustment ^ Specification ^
| Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw | Seat it until closed, then back out **2.5 turns** (factory service manual specification) |
| Throttle valve baseline angle | **~10°** open. Rotate the fast-idle cam clear (it must not be holding the throttle open), and make sure the Throttle Positioner and idle-up actuator rods are not touching the throttle lever, before setting this angle (factory service manual specification — corrects an earlier "cam engaged" description) |
| Automatic Choke default gap | Use **0.6 mm** and **0.3 mm** feeler gauges. Adjust the choke linkage screw until the choke shaft is centered between the two gauges. Then check the choke valve gap matches the specification at that point. |

  * After adjusting, check that the timing/reference marks line up.
  * On the bench, the mechanism still has a little play — check final idle behavior after you install the carburetor, with the fast-idle cam under normal load.

===== Vacuum Ports Reference =====

^ Port ^ Function ^ Standard local-spec configuration ^
| Upper breather port | Feeds air to the slow-speed circuit and central passage | Must stay fully clear — a blockage causes hesitation or stalling |
| Timed port | Sends a vacuum advance signal to the distributor | **Connect** to the distributor vacuum advance |
| Ported/emission port(s) | Feed emission-control sensors/VSVs on Japanese-spec vehicles | **Cap off** |

  * Port count and position differ between variants — some bodies have one port, others two.
  * Find the timed port by what it does, not by its position, since position is not the same on every carburetor.

===== Torque and Specification Reference =====

Values below are from the factory service manual's torque table and adjustment specifications, reproduced in all three units exactly as the manual gives them. They have not been cross-checked against the source video, since the video does not show torque wrenching or these specific angle/speed measurements. Where a value is used in a Reassembly step above, that step is noted in the last column.

^ Fastener / component ^ N·m ^ kgf·m ^ ft·lb ^ Used in ^
| Main jet | 1.8 ± 0.5 | 0.18 ± 0.05 | 1.3 ± 0.4 | Reassembly step 8 |
| Choke breaker cover | 2.5 ± 0.5 | 0.25 ± 0.05 | 1.8 ± 0.4 | Not applicable — no separate choke breaker cover was found on this carburetor (confirmed against the video; see the Automatic Choke step) |
| Valve seat retaining plate | 2.0 ± 0.5 | 0.20 ± 0.05 | 1.4 ± 0.4 | Reassembly step 5 (Needle Valve Body / Needle Valve Seat Gasket) |
| Solenoid valve (Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve, commonly called ADS) | 2.9 ± 0.5 | 0.30 ± 0.05 | 2.2 ± 0.4 | Reassembly step 3 |
| Depression chamber (Acceleration Pump diaphragm cover) | 3.4 ± 1.0 | 0.35 ± 0.10 | 2.5 ± 0.7 | Reassembly step 10 |
| Carburetor to intake manifold | 12.7 ± 2.5 | 1.30 ± 0.26 | 9.4 ± 1.9 | Installation and Initial Start, step 1 |
| Fuel pump to cylinder head | 19.1 ± 3.8 | 1.95 ± 0.39 | 14.1 ± 2.8 | Not applicable — fuel pump service is outside the scope of this carburetor guide |
| Outer Vent Solenoid Valve | 2.0 ± 0.5 | 0.20 ± 0.05 | 1.4 ± 0.4 | Reassembly step 16 |

Other factory specifications not yet mapped to a Reassembly step:

^ Specification ^ Value ^ Notes ^
| Throttle Positioner touch angle | 12.5° (reference) | Not yet matched against the source video |
| Throttle Positioner touch speed | 1,400 ± 100 rpm | Not yet matched against the source video |
| Choke valve opening angle (choke breaker, under 26.7 kPa vacuum) | 30–32° | No separate choke breaker was found on this carburetor (see Choke breaker cover row above); kept here for reference in case a different carburetor variant has one |
| Choke valve opening angle (unloader mechanism, throttle valve fully open) | 33–37° | Not yet matched against the source video |
| Float-to-Air-Horn gap | 6.5 mm | Applied above, Reassembly float-level note |
| Float lip-to-needle-valve clearance | 1.2 mm | Applied above, Reassembly float-level note |

===== Installation and Initial Start =====

  - Install the rebuilt, bench-adjusted carburetor on the engine. Reconnect the fuel, vacuum, and electrical connections you removed during disassembly. Torque (carburetor to intake manifold): **12.7 ± 2.5 N·m** (1.30 ± 0.26 kgf·m, 9.4 ± 1.9 ft·lb).
  - Expect the first start after a rebuild to take a little longer than usual to catch.
  - After starting, idle should settle to normal.\\ //If not, check the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw baseline (see [[#bench_adjustment_default_setting|Bench Adjustment]]) and the vacuum port connections (see [[#vacuum_ports_reference|Vacuum Ports Reference]]) before you adjust further.//

===== Fine-Tuning by Symptom =====

  * Start from the baseline settings in [[#bench_adjustment_default_setting|Bench Adjustment]].
  * Use how the running engine behaves to fine-tune the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw, Idle Adjusting Screw, and choke/fast-idle cam setting.
  * Change one thing at a time, in small steps, and test after each change before you make another.

==== Mixture too lean (turn Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw out) ====

^ Sign ^ Condition ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^
| Idle hunts or surges | Idle, warm engine | Not enough fuel for the air, at the current mixture setting | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw out in 1/8-turn steps until idle steadies |
| Backfiring or popping through the intake | Deceleration or light throttle | The lean mixture burns late, and is still burning when the intake valve opens | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw out in 1/8-turn steps |
| Hesitation or stumble on light throttle | Light acceleration from idle | Not enough fuel through the slow-speed circuit | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw out; check the Slow Jet is clear |
| Hard to restart when hot | Hot restart | Heat after shutdown makes an already-lean mixture leaner | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw out slightly |

==== Mixture too rich (turn Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw in) ====

^ Sign ^ Condition ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^
| Black, sooty exhaust smoke | Idle and light load | Too much fuel for the air | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw in, in 1/8-turn steps |
| Rough or rolling idle | Idle, warm engine | A too-rich mixture floods the idle circuit | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw in, in 1/8-turn steps |
| Spark plug fouling / black deposits | After extended idling | Unburned fuel builds up on the plugs | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw in; recheck float level |
| Poor fuel economy | General running | The mixture gives more fuel than the engine needs to burn | Turn the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw in, in small steps, and retest |

==== Idle speed and fast-idle cam ====

^ Sign ^ Condition ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^
| Engine stalls at a stop | Idle, warm engine | Idle Adjusting Screw set too low | Turn the Idle Adjusting Screw in to raise idle speed |
| Idle speed won't drop with foot off the pedal | Idle, warm engine | Idle Adjusting Screw set too high, or the Dashpot is holding the throttle open | Turn the Idle Adjusting Screw out; check the Dashpot linkage for binding |
| Cold engine stalls right after starting | Cold start | Fast-idle cam is not holding the throttle open enough | Recheck the Automatic Choke default gap (see [[#bench_adjustment_default_setting|Bench Adjustment]]) |
| Idle stays high well after warm-up | Warm engine | Fast-idle cam is not releasing; choke linkage may be set wrong, or sticking | Recheck choke linkage travel and fast-idle cam step position |

===== Glossary =====

^ Term ^ Function ^
| Air Horn | Upper carburetor section; float chamber cover |
| Body | Middle carburetor section; holds the main-jet emulsion tube, slow jet, and air-bleed passage; also called "Carburetor Body" |
| Flange | Base carburetor section; holds the throttle valve, throttle lever, and idle screws; bolts to the intake manifold; also called "Throttle Body" |
| VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) | Uses an electric signal to switch vacuum to the Dashpot and related circuits; term not found in the factory service manual excerpt (video-sourced) |
| Dashpot | Controls how fast idle RPM rises and falls on deceleration; a separate component from the Throttle Positioner |
| Throttle Positioner | Vacuum actuator mounted on the Air Horn; holds the throttle at a specified touch angle/speed. Factory service manual term; not yet matched against the source video |
| Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve | Cuts fuel supply when the engine shuts off; stops dieseling/run-on. Factory service manual diagram label is "Fuel cut solenoid"; commonly called the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid (ADS) |
| Outer Vent Solenoid Valve | Controls the external vent line and fuel overflow from the Air Horn |
| Idle Adjusting Screw (IAS) | Sets base idle speed |
| Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw | Sets base fuel/air mixture at idle |
| Automatic Choke | Choke valve run by a bimetal coil; makes the mixture richer for cold starts |
| Acceleration Pump | Gives a shot of fuel when you first press the throttle, to stop hesitation. Factory service manual and source video term (not "Accelerator Pump") |
| Needle Valve Body | Threaded housing, with an internal strainer, that the Needle Valve seats into; controls fuel flow into the float chamber |
| Needle Valve Seat Gasket | Seals the Needle Valve Body against the Air Horn |
| Float Lever Pin | Pivot pin the float swings on; factory service manual term (not "float pivot pin") |
| Slow Jet | Feeds a measured amount of fuel to the idle/low-speed circuit |
| Main Jet | Threaded jet, separate from the main-jet emulsion tube, metering fuel to the main (part-throttle/full-throttle) circuit; factory service manual step, not individually matched against the source video |
| Carburetor Insulator | Spacer, with a gasket, between the Body and Flange; not listed in the factory service manual's Body or Flange parts lists in this excerpt — unverified, may be the carburetor-to-manifold insulator shown out of order |
| Throttle Valve Switch (A/C cut switch) | Cuts the A/C compressor during hard acceleration; a JDM-import part; not covered by the factory service manual excerpt (video-sourced) |
| Timed port | Sends a vacuum advance signal to the distributor |
| Ported/emission port | Feeds emission-control sensors/VSVs on JDM-import bodies; capped off on a standard Kancil |
| Hot Idle Compensator (HIC) valve | Adds air at idle when the engine is hot; JDM-import/emission-package equipment, believed not fitted to Malaysian domestic-market carburetors (unconfirmed) |
| Idle-up actuator | Vacuum diaphragm that raises idle speed under load (e.g. A/C compressor engaged); part of the same JDM-import idle-up system as the HIC valve |
| Unloader mechanism | Opens the choke valve when the throttle is floored, to prevent a flooded cold start; adjusted by bending the unloader bar. Factory service manual term, not matched against the source video |