Kancil Carburetor Repair

Steps to identify, take apart, clean, rebuild, and adjust a Perodua Kancil carburetor.

Sources:

• Bongkar Rahsia Carburator Kancil (Zallywho Video Channel).
• Service Manual L200 - SM-01 2nd Edition.

• Spanner, 17 mm — Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve.
• Spanner/socket, 14 mm — fuel drain screw.
• Flat-blade screwdriver.
• Thin flat-blade screwdriver or pick — for retaining clips.
• Feeler gauges, 0.6 mm and 0.3 mm — choke adjustment.

• Petrol or carburetor cleaner — for outer/body cleaning only.
• Compressed air — for clearing passages.
• Rebuild kit for the specific engine variant (see below).

The primary difference in carburetors for each engine displacement is the needle valve head, due to the difference in fuel inlet flow rates to the float chamber;

• 850cc needle has one hole facing up.
• 660cc needle has three holes facing sideways.

1. Remove the outer linkages and electrical/vacuum parts first.
2. Then split the carburetor into its three main sections:
   • Air Horn — top, float chamber cover.
   • Body — middle; called “carburetor body” in generic aftermarket terms.
   • Flange — bottom; called “throttle body” in generic aftermarket terms; bolts to the intake manifold; carries the throttle valve, throttle lever, and idle screws.

Body variant:

• JDM import bodies have extra emission-control vacuum ports and a Throttle Valve Switch (A/C cut switch), wired into the A/C system near the throttle linkage.
• China-made bodies use a different casting without these parts.
• Photograph hose and wire positions before disconnecting anything.
• If the car previously had a JDM import carburetor, the engine side may still have matching hoses or wires (A/C cut switch connector, emission-port hoses) with nothing to plug into — cap these off or tie them down.
• On a standard Kancil, cap off any extra emission-control ports (see Vacuum Ports Reference) and keep only the timed port connected, to the distributor vacuum advance.

1. Remove the vacuum hose bracket near the intake (two mounting screws, two hoses).
2. Disconnect the VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) connector (3 pins, or 2 pins on some units).
   The number of wires tells you which cut-off circuit the valve is for.
3. Remove the Dashpot: E-ring, two mounting screws, then two more screws on the linkage side.
4. Remove the Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve (17 mm spanner, then by hand).
   Commonly called the Anti-Dieseling Solenoid (ADS). Cuts fuel when the engine shuts off — if it fails, the engine can keep running after shutoff (dieseling/run-on).
5. Remove the Idle Adjusting Screw (IAS) and the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw.
   Some units need a special tool for the mixture screw — check before you use force.
6. Remove the Acceleration Pump cover (4 screws) and the spring under it.
   Replace the cover gasket with the one from the kit.
7. Remove the Automatic Choke assembly: linkage screw, E-ring, then retaining screw. The choke connecting rod and lever assembly then comes free.
   If stuck, tap it gently with a small hammer or punch.

1. Disconnect the Outer Vent Solenoid Valve terminal from its connector (release the lock on the back with a small screwdriver).
2. Remove the Outer Vent Solenoid Valve from the Air Horn (3 screws).
3. Remove the Air Horn (float chamber cover, 3 screws) from the body.
   If stuck, lever it gently with a flat screwdriver.
4. Remove the Float Lever Pin with a flat screwdriver to free the float.
   May be a tight fit.
5. Remove the Acceleration Pump spring assembly from the pump bore, then the outlet check ball and spring below it (ball at the bottom, spring on top).
   The Acceleration Pump's internal parts are listed under the factory service manual's Body Related Parts, not Air Horn — they are shown here because they are accessible once the Air Horn is off, before the Body is split from the Flange.
6. Unscrew the Needle Valve Body, with its Needle Valve Seat Gasket, under the float.
   Has a small strainer inside; the kit usually includes a replacement.
7. Remove the Throttle Positioner with its bracket (2 screws) from the Air Horn.

Steps 8, 9, and 14 follow the factory service manual's stated procedure and part names; they have not yet been individually matched against the source video's footage.

1. Remove the two screws joining the Body to the Flange and separate the two sections. Between them: a Carburetor Insulator with its own gasket, and an O-ring — remove both, plus the gasket on the front face.
   The factory service manual's Body and Flange parts lists in this excerpt do not list a separate insulator at this joint — it may be the insulator normally fitted between the carburetor and intake manifold, shown here out of order; unverified against the excerpt.
2. Free the main-jet emulsion tube inside the Body: put a thin pick under the retaining clip on each side and push up on both at the same time.
   This passage is narrow — clean it well to clear debris.
3. Unscrew the Main Jet and remove its gasket.
   Factory service manual step, listed separately from the emulsion tube above; not individually matched against the source video.

Fuel path:

• The Slow Jet draws fuel from the bottom of the body, up through a central passage, to the slow-speed circuit.
• If this passage is blocked, the idle mixture becomes too lean.
• A separate air-bleed passage uses a spring that reacts to temperature. This spring opens and closes a valve near the base of the intake manifold, to control vacuum in that circuit.

Idle-up system (if fitted):

• The factory service manual describes an idle-up actuator, a solenoid valve, and a Hot Idle Compensator (HIC) valve assembly with its own O-ring, mounted on the Body (the factory service manual's Removal of Body procedure lists these parts there, not on the Flange).
• This system raises idle speed under load (for example, when the A/C compressor engages) and adds air at idle when the engine is hot.
• It appears to be JDM-import/emission-package equipment. Malaysian domestic-market carburetors are believed not to have the HIC valve, though this has not been independently confirmed.
• To check: look for a small vacuum-diaphragm canister connected to the throttle lever (idle-up actuator) and a separate small screw-in valve on the body (HIC valve). If neither is present, or the casting has no mounting boss for them, treat it as not fitted.

• Wash the three body castings (Air Horn, Body, Flange) in petrol or carburetor cleaner.
• Set the Automatic Choke assembly, VSV, and Dashpot aside; wipe clean on the outside only.
  Do not soak them in solvent — it can damage the parts inside.
• Dry all parts fully, then clear every jet and passage with compressed air.
  Jets and passages are narrow and clog easily — this matters more than the solvent wash.

• Put the carburetor back together in the reverse order of taking it apart.
• Tighten screws a little at a time, evenly, in a star or cross pattern on covers with several screws.
• Tighten to a snug fit.

1. Fit new gaskets between the Flange and Body, the right way round. Check that every port and bolt hole lines up before you fit the screws.
2. Install the fuel drain screw with its kit-supplied sealing washer (14 mm).
3. Install the Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve with its new gasket, centered and the right way round (17 mm). Torque: 2.9 ± 0.5 N·m (0.30 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 2.2 ± 0.4 ft·lb).
   Matched to the FSM torque table's “Solenoid valve” row.
4. Install the Throttle Positioner with its bracket onto the Air Horn (2 screws).
5. Install the Needle Valve Body, with its new Needle Valve Seat Gasket and filter, into the float mounting boss. Torque: 2.0 ± 0.5 N·m (0.20 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 1.4 ± 0.4 ft·lb).
   FSM “Valve seat retaining plate” row — the torque table does not name the retaining plate separately from the valve seat gasket, so this is applied here as the closest match.
6. Install the Needle Valve (push pin, spring, retaining clip) into the Needle Valve Body, then install the float on its Float Lever Pin. Check it moves freely and seats correctly.
   As the fuel level rises, the float closes the needle valve and stops more fuel from coming in. With a correct, engine-matched kit, install the kit's needle. If the kit is generic and does not match this engine, the needle may be too large, causing poor idle or a no-start condition, and the mixture screw shape may not fit — in that case keep the original needle and use the kit only for its gaskets and float needle valve seat.
7. Install the Acceleration Pump outlet check ball, spring, and pin (ball into its seat first, spring on top), then the O-ring.
   You can reuse the original O-ring if the kit does not have one.
8. Install the Main Jet and its gasket, then the Slow Jet and its O-ring. Torque (Main Jet): 1.8 ± 0.5 N·m (0.18 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 1.3 ± 0.4 ft·lb).
   No separate torque value is given for the Slow Jet in the FSM excerpt.
9. Put the Automatic Choke housing and cover back together (clean sealing faces), then fit its screws and the mounting bracket for the choke mechanism.
10. Install the Acceleration Pump assembly (new gasket from kit) and spring, then its screws. Torque (depression chamber cover): 3.4 ± 1.0 N·m (0.35 ± 0.10 kgf·m / 2.5 ± 0.7 ft·lb).
    Press the pump to check it moves freely. Applied here as the closest FSM match to this diaphragm cover; not matched against the source video.
11. Install the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw: fit its spring, then screw it in by hand until it seats lightly.
    This position is your starting point for the mixture setting in Bench Adjustment.
12. Put the choke connecting rod and lever back together (backing plate, choke lever, retaining screws, connecting rod). Check it moves correctly, then reconnect its wiring.
13. Install the Idle Adjusting Screw.
14. Install the Dashpot. Reconnect its wiring plug, and the Throttle Valve Switch connector if fitted.
15. Install the Air Horn onto the body.
16. Install the Outer Vent Solenoid Valve onto the Air Horn (3 screws, new gasket); reconnect its terminal and lock it into the connector. Torque: 2.0 ± 0.5 N·m (0.20 ± 0.05 kgf·m / 1.4 ± 0.4 ft·lb).
    Keep its inner passage clear. FSM “Outer vent solenoid” row.

Float level (factory service manual specification, not matched against video footage):

1. With the float raised, measure the gap between the float and the Air Horn using a block gauge. Specified gap: 6.5 mm.
2. Raise the float further and measure the clearance between its lip and the Needle Valve. Specified gap: 1.2 mm.
3. If either does not conform to spec, bend the float arm to correct it.

Do this basic adjustment before you install the carburetor on the engine.

Setup: keep the carburetor at about 23 °C for a few hours before you start (for example, in an air-conditioned room). This keeps the Automatic Choke's bimetal coil working the same way each time.

• After adjusting, check that the timing/reference marks line up.
• On the bench, the mechanism still has a little play — check final idle behavior after you install the carburetor, with the fast-idle cam under normal load.

• Port count and position differ between variants — some bodies have one port, others two.
• Find the timed port by what it does, not by its position, since position is not the same on every carburetor.

Values below are from the factory service manual's torque table and adjustment specifications, reproduced in all three units exactly as the manual gives them. They have not been cross-checked against the source video, since the video does not show torque wrenching or these specific angle/speed measurements. Where a value is used in a Reassembly step above, that step is noted in the last column.

Other factory specifications not yet mapped to a Reassembly step:

1. Install the rebuilt, bench-adjusted carburetor on the engine. Reconnect the fuel, vacuum, and electrical connections you removed during disassembly. Torque (carburetor to intake manifold): 12.7 ± 2.5 N·m (1.30 ± 0.26 kgf·m, 9.4 ± 1.9 ft·lb).
2. Expect the first start after a rebuild to take a little longer than usual to catch.
3. After starting, idle should settle to normal.
   If not, check the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw baseline (see Bench Adjustment) and the vacuum port connections (see Vacuum Ports Reference) before you adjust further.

• Start from the baseline settings in Bench Adjustment.
• Use how the running engine behaves to fine-tune the Idle Mixture Adjusting Screw, Idle Adjusting Screw, and choke/fast-idle cam setting.
• Change one thing at a time, in small steps, and test after each change before you make another.