projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades
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| projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades [2026/03/11 04:15] – removed - external edit (Unknown date) 127.0.0.1 | projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades [2026/03/11 14:55] (current) – Rename heading and reword contact point coil switching Andrew Yong | ||
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| + | ====== Perodua Kancil K4 660 Upgrades ====== | ||
| + | ===== From Contact Point Distributor to Electronic Distributor ===== | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Comparison ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | ^ Parameter ^ Contact Point Distributor ^ Electronic Distributor (Transistor Controlled Ignition) ^ | ||
| + | ^ Shipped Models | Kancil 660 | Kancil 850 | | ||
| + | ^ Coil Switching | Mechanical separation of contacts | Transistor | | ||
| + | ^ Coil Pulse | Slow | Sharp | | ||
| + | ^ Timing | Changes over time due to contact point wear | Consistent | | ||
| + | ^ Spark Power | Lower | Higher (mitigated by using resistive spark plugs) | | ||
| + | ^ RF Interference | Lower | Higher (mitigated by using resistive spark plugs) | | ||
| + | ^ Wear and Tear Items | Contact-breaker point\\ Contact-breaker spring\\ Condenser\\ Distributor cap and rotor contacts | None (not user serviceable) | | ||
| + | ^ Failure Mode | Gradual (knocking, loss of performance) | Sudden (electronic failure) | | ||
| + | |||
| + | Overall, an electronic distributor provides more consistent ignition, which results in a more efficient engine; it also provides optimum timing and higher performance throughout its service life with zero maintenance. | ||
| + | |||
| + | However, it comes with the tradeoff that any failure of electronics will be sudden, without developing early warning symptoms, and a failed electronic distributor can generally only be repaired with a 1:1 swap. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Tools Required ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | - 10mm hex socket wrench (optional, but good to have as nearly all other bolts are 10mm) | ||
| + | - 12mm hex socket wrench | ||
| + | - 21mm spark plug socket wrench | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Parts Required ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | ^ Qty ^ Unit ^ Item ^ Notes ^ | ||
| + | | 1 | each | **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | pack of 4 | **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | roll of 30m | **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | roll of 30m | **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | pack of 10pc | **Inline splice** (pick one):\\ Either **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | pack of 10pc | **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | roll of 5m | **[[https:// | ||
| + | |||
| + | **Optional: | ||
| + | |||
| + | ^ Qty ^ Unit ^ Item ^ Note ^ | ||
| + | | 1 | roll/pack | **[[https:// | ||
| + | | 1 | each | **[[https:// | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Wiring ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Prepare the Power Cable === | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Prepare ≥1.5m of Black and ≥1.5m of Red wire | ||
| + | - Splice onto the distributor' | ||
| + | * Black ↔ Black | ||
| + | * Red ↔ Red | ||
| + | - Route the conduit through the engine bay and cut to length, leaving ~5cm slack at the coil end | ||
| + | * Secure to battery positive cable or A/C piping | ||
| + | - Thread both wires through the conduit. Seal the distributor-end of the conduit (tape/ | ||
| + | - Crimp T-tap spade terminals onto the coil-end of both wires | ||
| + | * Heatshrink over spades for strain relief | ||
| + | - ✅ **Continuity check:** Probe distributor-end plug pins → coil-end spades | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Tap Into the Coil === | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Unplug the coil's right-side connector | ||
| + | * Optionally trim back 2cm of sleeve for easier access — do not nick wires | ||
| + | - Clamp T-taps onto these 2 wires, pointing toward the distributor to reduce cable stress: | ||
| + | * Black wire | ||
| + | * Black wire with red stripe | ||
| + | - Connect spades per the table below | ||
| + | |||
| + | ^ Distributor wire ^ Coil wire ^ | ||
| + | | Black (−) | Black with red stripe | | ||
| + | | Red (+) | Black wire //or// white wire (resistor coil) | | ||
| + | |||
| + | - ✅ **Continuity check:** Probe coil-end plug → distributor-end plug | ||
| + | - Finish all heatshrinking/ | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Remove the Old Distributor ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Mark the distributor angle: draw a line across engine block → distributor body with the paint marker | ||
| + | * Makes it easy to restore the contact point distributor if needed | ||
| + | * Gives a starting reference when installing the new distributor | ||
| + | - Unplug the spade cable below the distributor — tie it off, it will not be reused | ||
| + | - Remove the 12mm bolt | ||
| + | - Remove the distributor by gently wiggling and pulling in a straight line | ||
| + | * Minimise wiggling to preserve the shaft angle for reference when installing the new distributor | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Install the New Distributor ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Place old and new distributors side by side | ||
| + | - Transfer the angle mark to the new body as a dot (//not// a full line — final timing will differ from the contact-point setting) | ||
| + | - Rotate the new shaft to match the old shaft angle | ||
| + | * ⚠️ **The shaft is asymmetric (one side has a notch) — do not install 180° off** | ||
| + | - Install the distributor — it should slide in with little resistance if the shaft angle is well matched | ||
| + | * ⚠️ **If you hit a hard stop, do not force it** — remove, look into the block, and realign the shaft | ||
| + | - Install the 12mm bolt slightly loose (distributor should rotate with medium hand strength) | ||
| + | - Connect the power cable plug | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Change Spark Plugs ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Change all 3 spark plugs to the newly purchased resistive plugs so we have all our new ignition components installed before timing adjustment | ||
| + | * If you have a feeler gauge, check and gap the plugs to 0.7–0.8mm as they may differ due to manufacturing tolerances or shipping damage | ||
| + | * If you had purchased a pack of 4, it is expected to have one left over, safekeep it as a spare | ||
| + | * Inspect the original spark plugs, if they are in good condition (no structural damage, excessive wear or heavy deposits), keep them as a spare together with the contact point distributor | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Timing Adjustment ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Clear all tools and debris from the engine bay | ||
| + | - Start the engine with load: A/C on max cold, headlights on | ||
| + | * //If it won't start, check cable polarity// | ||
| + | - If the engine is cold and the carburetor' | ||
| + | * Either expect this behaviour if tuning a cold engine, or wait for the engine to warm up and settle to idle RPM if you want a consistent baseline RPM | ||
| + | - Slowly **advance** timing (RPM rises) until knock begins | ||
| + | - **Retard** until knock is completely gone | ||
| + | - ✅ **Verify:** | ||
| + | - Rev to 3000–4000 RPM — no knock | ||
| + | - Remove load (A/C, lights) — no rough idle | ||
| + | - Rev to 3000–4000 RPM again — no knock | ||
| + | - //If unstable at any step, retard slightly// | ||
| + | - Tighten the bolt **arm-tight only** — do not lean body weight on it, the aluminium thread strips easily | ||
| + | * Use blue Loctite if backing-out is a concern | ||
| + | * A dot of RTV silicone on the mating face near the screw hole will also prevent vibration from rotating the timing adjustment | ||
| + | - Draw the final angle line from engine block to distributor with the paint marker | ||
| + | |||
| + | //Reference image if you lost track of the starting angle:// | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{: | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Clean Up ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Finish any remaining heatshrinking or taping | ||
| + | - Dress the cable run to minimise stress and short-circuit risk; cable-tie to existing harness or pipes | ||
| + | - Final check: no tools or debris left in the engine bay | ||
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