projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades:contact_point_to_electronic_distributor
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| Both sides previous revisionPrevious revisionNext revision | Previous revision | ||
| projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades:contact_point_to_electronic_distributor [2026/03/21 19:14] – ↷ Page moved and renamed from projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades to projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades:contact_point_to_electronic_distributor Andrew Yong | projects:automotive:kancil:k4_660_upgrades:contact_point_to_electronic_distributor [2026/03/21 19:58] (current) – [Tap Into the Coil] Andrew Yong | ||
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| - | ====== Perodua Kancil K4 660 Upgrades ====== | + | ====== |
| - | ===== From Contact Point Distributor to Electronic Distributor | + | ===== Comparison |
| - | + | ||
| - | ==== Comparison | + | |
| ^ Parameter ^ Contact Point Distributor ^ Electronic Distributor (Transistor Controlled Ignition) ^ | ^ Parameter ^ Contact Point Distributor ^ Electronic Distributor (Transistor Controlled Ignition) ^ | ||
| Line 19: | Line 17: | ||
| However, it comes with the tradeoff that any failure of electronics will be sudden, without developing early warning symptoms, and a failed electronic distributor can generally only be repaired with a 1:1 swap. | However, it comes with the tradeoff that any failure of electronics will be sudden, without developing early warning symptoms, and a failed electronic distributor can generally only be repaired with a 1:1 swap. | ||
| - | ==== Tools Required ==== | + | ===== Tools Required |
| - 10mm hex socket wrench (optional, but good to have as nearly all other bolts are 10mm) | - 10mm hex socket wrench (optional, but good to have as nearly all other bolts are 10mm) | ||
| Line 25: | Line 23: | ||
| - 21mm spark plug socket wrench | - 21mm spark plug socket wrench | ||
| - | ==== Parts Required ==== | + | ===== Parts Required |
| ^ Qty ^ Unit ^ Item ^ Notes ^ | ^ Qty ^ Unit ^ Item ^ Notes ^ | ||
| Line 43: | Line 41: | ||
| - | ==== Wiring ==== | + | ===== Wiring |
| - | === Prepare the Power Cable === | + | ==== Prepare the Power Cable ==== |
| - Prepare ≥1.5m of Black and ≥1.5m of Red wire | - Prepare ≥1.5m of Black and ≥1.5m of Red wire | ||
| Line 58: | Line 56: | ||
| - ✅ **Continuity check:** Probe distributor-end plug pins → coil-end spades | - ✅ **Continuity check:** Probe distributor-end plug pins → coil-end spades | ||
| - | === Tap Into the Coil === | + | ==== Tap Into the Coil ==== |
| - Unplug the coil's right-side connector | - Unplug the coil's right-side connector | ||
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| ^ Distributor wire ^ Coil wire ^ | ^ Distributor wire ^ Coil wire ^ | ||
| - | | Black (−) | Black with red stripe | | + | | Black (−) | Black with red stripe |
| - | | Red (+) | Black wire //or// white wire (resistor | + | | Red (+) | Black wire (primary positive) |
| - ✅ **Continuity check:** Probe coil-end plug → distributor-end plug | - ✅ **Continuity check:** Probe coil-end plug → distributor-end plug | ||
| - Finish all heatshrinking/ | - Finish all heatshrinking/ | ||
| - | ==== Remove the Old Distributor ==== | + | ===== Remove the Old Distributor |
| - Mark the distributor angle: draw a line across engine block → distributor body with the paint marker | - Mark the distributor angle: draw a line across engine block → distributor body with the paint marker | ||
| Line 84: | Line 82: | ||
| * Minimise wiggling to preserve the shaft angle for reference when installing the new distributor | * Minimise wiggling to preserve the shaft angle for reference when installing the new distributor | ||
| - | ==== Install the New Distributor ==== | + | ===== Install the New Distributor |
| - Place old and new distributors side by side | - Place old and new distributors side by side | ||
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| - Connect the power cable plug | - Connect the power cable plug | ||
| - | ==== Change Spark Plugs ==== | + | ===== Change Spark Plugs ===== |
| Change all 3 spark plugs to the newly purchased resistive plugs so we have all our new ignition components installed before timing adjustment. If you had purchased a pack of 4, it is expected to have one left over; keep it as a spare. | Change all 3 spark plugs to the newly purchased resistive plugs so we have all our new ignition components installed before timing adjustment. If you had purchased a pack of 4, it is expected to have one left over; keep it as a spare. | ||
| Line 110: | Line 108: | ||
| * Used plugs: 30º (1/12 turn) | * Used plugs: 30º (1/12 turn) | ||
| * ⚠️ Do not over-tighten the plugs as this will destroy the aluminium threads of the engine block | * ⚠️ Do not over-tighten the plugs as this will destroy the aluminium threads of the engine block | ||
| - | ==== Timing Adjustment ==== | ||
| - | === Preparation === | + | ===== Timing Adjustment ===== |
| + | |||
| + | ==== Preparation | ||
| - Clear all tools and debris from the engine bay | - Clear all tools and debris from the engine bay | ||
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| * **Counter-clockwise (toward yourself)** → Retards timing (decrease in angle) | * **Counter-clockwise (toward yourself)** → Retards timing (decrease in angle) | ||
| - | === Adjustment (without Timing Light Gun) === | + | ==== Adjustment (without Timing Light Gun) ==== |
| - **Advance timing** until light knocking begins (RPM may rise slightly) | - **Advance timing** until light knocking begins (RPM may rise slightly) | ||
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| - Optional: Mark an aligned pair of small dots on the engine block and distributor to note our starting angle as a baseline for when we perform initial testing and tuning later | - Optional: Mark an aligned pair of small dots on the engine block and distributor to note our starting angle as a baseline for when we perform initial testing and tuning later | ||
| - | === Adjustment (with Timing Light Gun) === | + | ==== Adjustment (with Timing Light Gun) ==== |
| - | - Connect | + | - Clamp the timing light inductive trigger |
| + | * Pay attention to the indicated direction on the timing light trigger, it should point toward the spark plug | ||
| - Point the timing light into the service hole of the transmission (below the distributor), | - Point the timing light into the service hole of the transmission (below the distributor), | ||
| - **Specified ignition timing**: | - **Specified ignition timing**: | ||
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| - Tighten slightly so we can proceed with testing across a variety of engine loads | - Tighten slightly so we can proceed with testing across a variety of engine loads | ||
| - | === Testing and Finalization === | + | ==== Testing and Finalization |
| - ✅ **Verify:** | - ✅ **Verify:** | ||
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| - **Finally, double-check that the distributor does not rotate freely by hand and alignment does not change under idle engine vibration** | - **Finally, double-check that the distributor does not rotate freely by hand and alignment does not change under idle engine vibration** | ||
| - | ==== Fine Tuning ==== | + | ===== Fine Tuning |
| Some additional tuning may be needed to optimize the timing across different driving scenarios, after you get a feel of the engine performance over a few days. | Some additional tuning may be needed to optimize the timing across different driving scenarios, after you get a feel of the engine performance over a few days. | ||
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| **The primary goal of timing adjustment is to eliminate knocking, which can damage the engine over time.** Improvements in fuel economy, throttle response, or smoothness at different RPMs are secondary and considered fine-tuning. | **The primary goal of timing adjustment is to eliminate knocking, which can damage the engine over time.** Improvements in fuel economy, throttle response, or smoothness at different RPMs are secondary and considered fine-tuning. | ||
| - | === Signs You May Need to Retard Timing (Lower Angle) === | + | ==== Signs You May Need to Retard Timing (Lower Angle) |
| ^ Sign ^ RPM Range ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^ | ^ Sign ^ RPM Range ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^ | ||
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| ^ Clatter at very low RPM while lugging high gear at low speed (e.g. 3rd gear at 25 km/h) | 800–1500 | Engine is under too much load for low RPM → slow, uneven combustion, piston speed too low for smooth torque | Do not adjust timing — this is not a timing issue.\\ Downshift sooner to avoid lugging, since the Kancil 660 is relatively underpowered. | | ^ Clatter at very low RPM while lugging high gear at low speed (e.g. 3rd gear at 25 km/h) | 800–1500 | Engine is under too much load for low RPM → slow, uneven combustion, piston speed too low for smooth torque | Do not adjust timing — this is not a timing issue.\\ Downshift sooner to avoid lugging, since the Kancil 660 is relatively underpowered. | | ||
| - | === Signs You May Need to Advance Timing (Higher Angle) === | + | ==== Signs You May Need to Advance Timing (Higher Angle) |
| ^ Sign ^ RPM Range ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^ | ^ Sign ^ RPM Range ^ Why It Happens ^ Adjustment ^ | ||
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| - | ==== Clean Up ==== | + | ===== Clean Up ===== |
| - Finish any remaining heatshrinking or taping | - Finish any remaining heatshrinking or taping | ||
| - Dress the cable run to minimise stress and short-circuit risk; cable-tie to existing harness or pipes | - Dress the cable run to minimise stress and short-circuit risk; cable-tie to existing harness or pipes | ||
| - Final check: no tools or debris left in the engine bay | - Final check: no tools or debris left in the engine bay | ||
projects/automotive/kancil/k4_660_upgrades/contact_point_to_electronic_distributor.1774120459.txt.gz · Last modified: by Andrew Yong
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